hand-painted kitchens, furniture & period property decorating

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Decorative paint effect on a Mark Wilkinson kitchen Posted: 27 Sep 2013 03:27 PM PDT The post Decorative paint effect on a Mark Wilkinson kitchen appeared first on Traditional Painter Project Details I was commissioned by Mark Wilkinson furniture to produce a decorative paint effect on this rather large kitchen. Starting a kitchen while it is still being fitted is not ideal, but because of the time frame involved, I started the preparation work while the fitting was being finished. Preparing a kitchen As with all kitchens we started off by stripping down all the furniture from the units, taping up all the interiors, protecting all work surfaces and floor areas with 1000 grade lining paper. We label all drawers and components that we remove, so it makes it a lot easier when replacing everything. Using two pack filler, we proceed to fill up all large holes and dents. We gun in all joints using acrylic caulk and a small filling knife to keep the profile. Using our Festool dust extraction units, we proceeded to sand smooth all areas to be painted. After vacuuming the units, we use a tack rag to remove any last traces of dust, leaving every surface ready for painting. Base coating to finished effect Oil paint was specified, so I started off by applying two coats of oil based eggshell. After hand mixing the colour I added it to an oil scumble glaze. (Alway mix more than you will need, as running out half way through a kitchen can make it very difficult to keep the continuity of the colour.) The glaze is then applied in a cross hatch fashion. Using a lint free cloth I dab and wipe out areas of the glaze, then using a hog hair softener to soften the glaze. Applying the effect evenly over the whole kitchen takes a bit of skill, but stepping back and checking your work regularly is a big help. Once the glazing is complete and allowed to dry, I mixed a blue to match the range and hand painted all 104 handles, all tops and bottoms of hinges and applied coach lining to 70 odd panels. To protect the finish I applied two coats eggshell varnish. The kitchen was then cleaned up and put back together. Being a kitchen painter is a highly skilled job. Not only do you need to have a good skill base, but you need to be methodical in your work ethic, focused, and be able to persevere to the end of the project. This project had its difficulties – not only did I have to work around fitters, builders, plumbers, electricians and granite fitters, I had to do it using oil based paint and glazes. This was six weeks of blood, sweat and tears! but looking at the finished product, it was worth every minute. Specialist painter and decorator, Kevin Mapstone, is a member of the Traditional Painter UK network. He is the first port of call for hand painted kitchens worldwide. Kevin has worked on the most prestigious kitchen and furniture projects for clients in Russia, and throughout Europe. He also specialises in decorative paint finishes and all aspects of period property decorating. . Viewed 1 times Decorative paint effect on a Mark Wilkinson kitchen

How do you paint pine furniture? Posted: 23 Sep 2013 05:00 AM PDT The post How do you paint pine furniture? appeared first on Traditional Painter This is a long indepth article on painting pine furniture, the most read online on this topic. It is written by professional furniture painters, and there is a lot to digest, so maybe print it off or bookmark it: preparation and painting of pine – waxed, varnished, bare or painted – laminate… brushes to use, why what where how…! All the answers are here! This was an orange pine dresser! Now it is a lovely feature piece. One of the most environmentally responsible things you can do these days is to paint pine furniture that you buy second hand, or have had in the family for a while. Older pieces are usually quite well constructed and deserve some love, especially those that were made with love! Even if a piece of furniture is a little out of touch with current tastes, and gone orange on you! for the sake of a few coats of paint or wax or varnish, a grim fashion statement can be updated and given a new lease of life. This pine table was all bare orange and dull. But paintable. DIY or call a pro? So, once you have decided to revive an old pine chest or table, you have to decide how to commit yourself financially and/or time wise. a – You can call in a professional furniture painter They will give you a fixed price , and at the end of the job, present you with a finished piece of hand-painted furniture that makes you smile. b – you can do it yourself. If you do it yourself, this is where I hope I can make a bit of a difference So often on forums I see the life and the fun factor drain out of people as they make mistake after mistake, and see their investment in time and money turn to pooh. Just because you aren’t a professional, doesn’t mean you can’t do a good job, and being DIY doesn’t preclude you from using trade quality products. In all honestly, I really don’t understand why anyone spends the money on rubbish in big DIY stores when for the same or even less, you can use the right kit. If the reason is, I don’t know what is available outside of B&Q, then you came to the right site. Painting pine properly yourself, you need to invest financially, and wisely: Correct paint for the finish or effect you are after ; There are many options, but the basic starting point for non professionals, I think, is either - Annie Sloan chalk paint – Apply straight on any surface, no prep required. Once painted, protect the chalk paint with wax. - or acrylic eggshell. The surface has to be cleaned, prepared and primed before egshelling. - or you can go with oil eggshell over a thoroughly cleaned, prepared and primed surface. I like oil eggshell, but if you aren’t confident in your abilities, go acrylic eggshell. (Everything worth knowing about Oil v acrylic eggshell) You can go round and round with this brand is better than that brand, and who would pay £x for that posh paint when you can get that high street brand paint for £x less 40%. To save yourself headache and heartache, just think: - the high street eggshell paints are shiny - the posh eggshells are flatter - chalk paint is different, quirky, and very cool, if the French look is your thing.  - there really isn’t that much of a price difference for small quantities of paint. With that simplified view of the paint world you should find it easier to take your pick of some of these paint suitable for furniture . The overall cost of materials for a piece of furniture is fairly constant, whichever paint you choose. Shabby chic or not shabby chic? Whatever paint you choose, you can either apply it conventionally, that is to say flat and even block colour and leave it that way, or you shabby chic your paintwork with a juducious sanding. This wooden headboard was painted with a water based eggshell, I believe, and distressed. It could have been painted conventionally, and over time, wear and tear would have shabby chic-ed it naturally. Or they could have used chalk paint from the outset, roughed up the edges to imitate wear and tear, and protected with wax. Lee Simone gives some brilliant advice on distressed paint finishes for furniture. It is purely a case of taste how you go about painting furniture and distressing it, or not. Correct cleaning product for pine You won’t need any cleaner if you use chalk paint. If you use conventional oil or acrylic or waterborne paints, you will need to make sure the surface is thoroughly clean and keyed/sanded. To remove wax, try a cleaner that doesn’t gas or burn you. Krudkutter Original is the business in tandem with a good kitchen scourer. I cover abrasives further down. Brushes My Paint Brush is a superb ONLINE destination for paint brushes. If you trust our opinion, and you want to buy exceptional professional brushes (and accessories) from an online store, MyPaintBrush will really see you right with fair prices and brilliant customer service, I can’t recommend any place better. Brushes competition – "Get into the spirit"   Winner to receive 3 box sets of the new Pioneer Spirit natural bristle brush range  Simply complete the following  I use Mypaintbrush because…………………………………… ? Leave your answer here Any or all quotes may be used in future marketing campaigns Traditional Painter Martin Guest had * good things to say about the 70/30 natural bristle brush. Build quality and bristles and in use in oil paint, it is on a par with current Hamilton Perfection – but love those Spirit prices!   Why you should use a decent paint brush Just like you wouldn’t buy a pair of shoes for a sprint that are 2 sizes too small for you, why would you buy a cruddy brush for your expensive paint? I think the Wooster FTP is the best for chalk paint, and the brushes pictured below will do you proud in acrylic eggshell. ON OFFER THIS WEEKEND -* DON’T MISS OUT! Any brush any size any shape you decide decision made easier with FREE postage & packing this weekend !Check out the range. Use code ‘freepp’ at checkout If you stick with water-based paints, there is no excuse nor reason to worry that a brush is too good for you. Taking care of brushes can be as simple as leaving the brush in a pot of the Krudkutter cleaner for an hour and wash it out under a cool running tap. You can get it perfectly clean. Flick it out as dry as you can, shape it with your fingers and lay it down somewhere safe on a piece of kitchen paper. Or treat yourself to a * Brush Vest. Simple cleaning ensures a really nice synthetic paint brush will last you a long time and it will be a joy to use, and there should be some sense of peace of mind too, knowing that you are using the same kit that painters like me are using, rather than using cheapo brushes from B&Q that pros wouldn’t have much luck with either! Paint conditioner Acrylic paint gets a bad rap because people say it goes on stringy and you can’t get rid of brushmarks. That isn’t true. Buy a little pot of Floetrol and add up to 10% to your paint instead of water. Some decorators will tell you it is a waste of money! At worst, you create 10% more usable paint. At best it will give you time to work the paint. And it will help the paint to lie flat with fewer / negligible brushmarks. An alternative conditioner which some decorators are getting quite attached to is XIM Latex Xtender. If you use oil paint, add Owatrol oil, up to 10%. Again, with a bit of technique, the conditioner will help brushmarks flow out nicely. Good sandpaper Abrasives have come a long way since Oakey sandpaper, the stuff that used to disintegrate and stink to high heaven when it got damp! Abranet is the way ahead. Use 80 or 120 grade for rougher sanding. If you use acrylic eggshell, on flat surfaces, sand between coats with 240 or 320 grade abranet, and your finish will be immaculate. On profiles use a spongy sanding pad, or if you have a lot to do, consider Mirka Gold Flex, which is a bit of a revelation for sanding edges without removing too much paint. (Mirka do provide many of the best sanding solutions on the market.) For chalk paint, it can be sanded super glassy smooth, but really, there is no need to sand till you get to the first wax stage. It’s the Annie Sloan way and it really is much cleaner that way. Abranet is my abrasive of choice. Across the range, Abranet is used on the roughest woodwork to the highest class autos. It is part of a dustless sanding system. I got started for with an Abranet starter kit which back in 2009 was between £25-£40. I have adopted the whole power sanding system too, but I still have this starter kit, and use it most days. The system is a sanding block that plugs into your vacuum cleaner, plus some abrasives. Without seeing it, I know its a weird concept, but honestly, it has revolutionised decorating across the board. And this is what the basic kit looks like. So you use the sanding block for flat areas, the dust goes straight down the tube into your vacuum. For fiddly bits, there are a variety of specialist sponges and blocks available, but for DIY to get the feel for it, the simplest option is an interface pad. A starter kit comes with an interface pad, which is about 1/2″ thick foam with velcro. I take this pad off the sanding block and use it for sanding profiles. Don’t bother cutting corners with other sandpaper, you will miss the whole point of Abranet and dustless sanding. (Dustless in that 90% of dust should be captured at source. ) Exclusive Mirka offer to Traditional Painter Newsletter readers Traditional Painters work with Mirka, who we think are out-and-out fantastic company with a great ethos. They seem to like us too, and have put together an offer. This is exclusively for readers of the Traditional Painter Newsletter. The Abranet Starter Kit for £33.07 delivered to your door, or the Handy Kit for under £40 delivered. So please sign up for the Newsletter and receive this and many more deals that will help you with your furniture painting projects Sign up for TP weekend newsletter Exclusive deal- Abranet Starter kits Masking tape So often I see demos on Youtube where a few pieces of masking tape in the right place would have raised the standard from sloppy DIY to thoughtful professional. 3M Scoth Blue 2090 is reliable and easy to get hold of. Don’t buy from a Dulux Decorator merchant though, price ways, they will pull your pants down, so to speak. Go on line for half the price. Floor protection A roll of lining paper works well, or a sheet of One Tuff if you like your floor protection tuff and fluff free. Cotton dust sheets or newspaper, nooooooooooo – that is making life hard for yourself. Make time You are also committing your free time to this project, because even with the best will in the world, no plug-and-play-and-leave machine can do the work for you. I don’t know about you, but there are only so many hours in a day, definitely not unlimited spare time, so make it count, do it right and maximise the return on your money and time! That is the kit, how do I actually paint pine furniture? There are thousands of blogs and forums that talk about painting pine and painting pine furniture. I see a lot of misconceptions floating around, and home DIY painters especially, are getting in trouble, unnecessarily, following duff advice, or not understanding a few simple principles. Painting pine properly is not super easy, but with a few thoughts in the forefront of your mind, any keen painter can achieve excellent results. Rather than me talking in abstracts this links to an article I wrote that uses the exact same principles outlined above: Paint a pine table with Little Greene paint & Mirka CEROS When you have read that, you should have a clearer picture in your mind of the practical steps and the principles. However, there are lots of combinations of primers and paints for different surfaces, so by all means come back here, and below is a series of step by steps to paint varnished furniture, paint waxed furniture etc IF YOU ARE LEARNING SOMETHING, WHY NOT SIGN UP FOR FREE EMAIL UPDATES OF SIMILAR QUALITY ARTICLES ABOUT PAINTING FURNITURE, KITCHENS AND PERIOD PROPERTY. Painting pine furniture the professional ways When it comes to preparing pine furniture for painting, if you want a professional looking finish, there is no choice: it should be done to the best of your ability. When deciding which primers and finish paint to use on pine furniture, there is choice. Oil based or water based, or a combination of the two. All the paints and products mentioned, I use them and stand by them (unless I say otherwise). Some suppliers are listed in the lower information section of the page. Armed with a good paint brush, abranet abrasives, vacuum cleaner with brush attachment, decent paint, a few bits and bobs, and the tips and tricks below, you are good to go! Any questions this weekend, just ask them via Twitter. I am @acmasterpainter Oil based finish on pine furniture I think the combination of water-based primer, oil based undercoat, oil-based eggshell is the solution numero uno that ticks all the boxes for the most durable and, in my opinion, the most beautiful traditional paint finish possible on timber: Step-by-step way to an oil paint finish on pine » Clean the pine- If woodwork is fairly clean, wipe it thoroughly with a lint-free rag dampened with white spirit or meths. (Not dripping!) When it has evaporated off, sand with 120 or 180 grade Abranet abrasive paper, using a foam sanding pad for intricate areas. . Or, if the woodwork is waxy or filthy, I degrease and de-wax with Liberon Wax Cleaner and steel wool. Krudkutter Original with scourers achieves a quicker and cleaner end result. Leave to dry overnight and then sand as above. (See Annie Sloan chalk paint below if you cannot stand the prospect of too much preparation of waxy pine.) . Prime pine – Prime with Blackfriars Problem Solving Primer, which is water-based low VOC low odour. (The contents of the Blackfriars tin are in fact re-branded Classidur Universal Primer which historically adheres to any surface better than any other primer available to the decorating trade. It has a lot of body too.) Mythic Universal primer is on a par with the Blackfriars paint for this scenario. It is fantastic to apply, but because of its consistency, I would specify 2 coats of Mythic primer on new timber versus one of the Blackfriars. . For water based primer, use a Wooster Silver Tip, Proform Picasso, Rembrandt or Corona Knight brush to give yourself the best chance of a nice finish. . Undercoat – apply a coat of oil-based undercoat tinted to the colour of the top coat. (I use Little Greene oil undercoat, as it has body and dries as expected. I used to favour Dulux Trade undercoat for this sort of work, but I’m not confident with Dulux formulas these days.) . Fill – When the u/c has dried overnight ideally, do any filling of dents over the undercoat; sand smooth. 2-pack filler is most sensible choice. . Eggshell finish – Apply 2 coats of Little Greene Oil Eggshell, sanding between coats and cleaning with a tack rag. Prior to last coat, sand with 240 or 320 grade for a lovely finish. . Brush tip! If this is a one-off project, just buy one 2″ Wooster Alpha, for the whole job. Clean it out after priming in water-based. When you have finished with the oil u/c, if you have a little Brushmate vapour box, there’s no need to clean the brush out. . Finish with the undercoating, then use a scraper and piece of lining paper to get out as much paint as you can, then work the brush in to the eggshell. By the time you are onto the second coat of eggshell, the brush will be perfect. . If this has been of use, why not keep informed with updates by email. I don’t spam, just send out more tips and ideas that you can use yourself. Water-based finish on pine furniture On unpainted timber, a combination of oil based primer, and water-based eggshell will get you very close to a beautiful “oil-based” finish on pine. It is based on what I have picked up from the most knowledgeable residential painter I have ever encountered, US painter, Jack Pauhl. When starting from bare pine, please bear in mind that water-based primer and water-based topcoats will do little to disguise the grain of the wood. The finish will be tough, it is low odour and nice to apply, but 2 coats of a quick-drying oil-based primer like Zinsser Coverstain, although rather smelly, is the best start to a more solid water-based finish. Step-by-step way to an acrylic eggshell paint finish on pine » Prepare pine- Preparation is same as above ie If woodwork is fairly clean, wipe it thoroughly with a lint-free rag dampened with Krudkutter Original or white spirit or meths. (Not dripping!) Sand with 120 or 180 grade abranet, using a foam sanding pad for intricate areas. . Or, if the woodwork is waxy or filthy, I degrease and de-wax with Liberon Wax Cleaner and steel wool. Krudkutter Original with scourers achieves a quicker and cleaner end result. Leave to dry overnight and then sand as above. (See Annie Sloan chalk paint below if you cannot stand the prospect of too much preparation of waxy pine.) . Knot and prime pine For a belt and braces approach, use Zinsser Aerosol to seal knots and then prime with Zinsser Cover Stain (oil-based paint) These are superb trade products that dry quickly. On small projects, you can have the surface sealed and primed twice in a day, ready for finishing the next day. . Fill over first coat of primer Now you can see the blemishes, do any filling, and sand smooth. (2 pack fillers are good bet.) . Re-prime Apply second coat of Zinsser Cover Stain. . Acrylic eggshell finish Sand the coverstain smooth with 180 abranet. It will sand down easily to a glassy finish. and apply 2 coats of acrylic eggshell, sanding with 240 or finer Abranet between coats. . If using Farrow and Ball Estate eggshell, which is an oil-water-borne hybrid, the correct approach is to apply one coat of F&B primer -undercoat over the coverstain! If you paint F&B eggshell straight over Coverstain, or any primer other than Farrow and Ball’s, they will not entertain your complaint if there are any issues. Slow drying, no drying, flaking, to name but 3 issues I have encountered or heard about. . As you can see, this approach with oil primer plus acrylic topcoats is a bit more thorough than the slap-it-on-quick technique that many people are lead to believe is the advantage of using water-based eggshell. . You need a really good technique to avoid brush marks in acrylic eggshell. I cover this elsewhere on the site under Brushes. . If this has been of use, why not keep informed with updates by email. I don’t spam, just send out more tips and ideas that you can use yourself. 100% water-based products for painting pine furniture 100% acrylic water-based primer, brushing filler and water-based eggshell plus patience will achieve very close to a beautiful “oil-based” finish on pine using water-based products only! I developed this system on a 2011 project where absolutely no oil paint was allowed on site, but the finish on the woodwork had to be 5 star. Step-by-step way to an acrylic eggshell paint finish on pine » Prepare surface Apply one coat Blackfriars Problem-Solving Primer or 2 coats Mythic Universal primer to seal surface and block stains from knots etc. Apply 2 heavy coats of Acrylic Gesso, leave 24 hours and sand smooth with 180 grade Abranet. Apply 1 primer undercoat, and 2 topcoats of acrylic eggshell. . That works! . The acrylic gesso is used by artists who prime canvas to create a super smooth substrate before painting. It is water-based and the consistency is like a cross between liquid filler and oil-based undercoat. ie it has body and builds up the surface to give a nice hard base for the rest of the water-based paints. It involves more work than priming with just an oil primer, (2 extra coats, extra sanding, extra time) but where customers with high expectations for quality require zero/low VOC, no/low odour paints, this is the way ahead. If this has been of use, why not keep informed with updates by email. I don’t spam, just send out more tips and ideas that you can use yourself. Painting over previously painted furniture Repainting over old oil paint, I would have no hesitation in recommending an all water-based approach ie 2 coats of Mythic Universal primer plus 2 coats of acrylic finish (Mythic semi gloss, or Little Greene acrylic eggshell, Sikkens BL Satura, to name but 3 that come with glowing references.) The hard work for preparing a solid surface has already been done by the old oil paint, so as long as it is solid, you can achieve a really solid and durable finish, slightly more plastic sheeny than oil eggshell, but very acceptable in 95% of cases. Painting waxy pine furniture with minimal preparation Try Annie Sloan chalk paint for a real country look to your pine furniture. This is a very clever product that thrives on wax and grease. Minimal preparation required except on knots, which you need to seal with a couple of coats of aerosol Zinssser BIN. Then apply 2 coats of chalk paint and seal with clear wax or varnish. This is how boy decorators use Annie Sloan Chalk paint. You can tint the wax, or wipe on / rub off to reveal the backing colours, distress, age, or keep it conventional. See Cait at Carte Blanche for the full inside story and Annie Sloan supplies. Painting laminate Sometimes furniture is made up of different materials. The interior of a pine cupboard may have an easy wipe finish? Here is how to paint a laminate finish. Furniture painter specialists to do the painting for you If you would rather have a professional furniture painter transform a piece of furniture for you, contact one of these specialist furniture painters in your area. Trustworthy and switched on, they have their own slightly different approach to their work, but fundamentally, we all sing off the same hymn sheet. Correct material choice and thorough workmanship is the way to go. For ready-reckoner budgeting, think in terms of £150 for a chest of drawers to £250 for a good size wardrobe for a flat paint finish. Nicky Hancock of HK Art or Martin Dunn are 2 craftsmen on the list who also offer fine-artistic additions, and most offer decorative paint finishes. If you have a suite of good quality furniture, it usually makes sense on every level to employ a pro, as you would be hard-pushed to replace one piece for the cost of the painting of the suite. If you have a one-off not-so-special piece of furniture, then experience says that it is probably a DIY project. Extra tips How much cleaning, how much sanding? » The ideal surface is new, unpainted timber. However, unpainted second-hand pieces will accumulate dirt and layers of wax etc which can fatally affect the adhesion of most paint. As a rule of thumb, with poor prep, all your good work could be for nought, so even though the primers available nowadays are really high performance, I don’t skimp on prep, and regardless of the primers I use, I try go the extra mile to get timber surfaces clean. Therefore, . As an alternative cleaning agent to white spirit or meths, or Langlow Wood Reviver or Liberon Wax Remover, try Krudkutter Original, which is an eco friendly biodegradable cleaner which decorators use to clean really dirty or waxy surfaces quicky. Wipe on with a scourer, leave for a few minutes, and while still damp, scrub down. Wipe with a lint free cloth like a Mirka microfibre. Repeat if necessary.) . Once cleaned down, the surface is ready for sanding. The aim of sanding is to provide a key for the paint, so 180 is minimum grade roughness you should use to prepare with. At the other extreme, don’t use coarse 60 grade – you don’t want to create ugly gouges and scratches. That doesn’t add character, that screams poor workmanship! I am practically down to only one type of abrasive, Abranet. . The conventional decorating specification for woodwork always starts, with kps – knot, prime stop. Knot and prime » If you have knots, (which can continue to exude resin for years afterwards) the text decorating books say to “knot” them ie traditionally you would seal the knots with shellac knotting (brown) or clear styptic knotting. . That is very old hat, and there are alternatives, which I now prefer. . Blackfriars Problem Solving Primer or Mythic Universal Primer These are high adhesion water-based primers that prime AND seal knots and stains. One coat Blackfriars or 2 coats of Mythic Universal Primer. (Be aware that if surfaces are in direct sunlight, knots can leak through any sealer).If in doubt, Zinsser BIN is about the last resort and if that fails ot seal a knot, there isn’t much left to do except drill out the knot and fill it . Zinsser Bullseye or other quick drying primers are user-friendly and have good stain-blocking abilities, just not as good as the 2 above options. However one option that has worked for me is to prepare and paint the whole surface first with a water-based primer. The dark shadow of knots will show through the white primer, and you seal those with a couple of sprays with aerosol Zinsser BIN. . Bear in mind that some knots will weep beyond the capabilities of any paint coating, and will literally lift the paint and break through it. The ultimate solution is to drill the knot out and fill it. Or view it as character! . If you are priming over factory lacquered pine, the lacquer coating should have had a stain blocker added to it, so knots should have been sealed in for good. However if you are priming with anything other than Blackfriars or Mythic primers, it might be a good idea to spot spray Zinsser BIN over visible knots. . All the above primers dry within minutes and can be overpainted the same day. Stopper, Filler » Types of filler Fill any obvious holes with a 2-pack filler or wood stopper, but not a standard “poly” filler which is too soft. . You could use linseed oil putty or a plastic wood – . Wipe any excess putty or plastic wood off the surface with a rag. Putty skins over sufficiently overnight for painting. Use a chisel to level off plastic wood. . For cracked joints, I use acrylic caulk sparingly before the first top coat. . The extent of your filling is very subjective. I could skim and fill the grain of old pine furniture with Toupret Gras a Lacquer till it had a porcelain blemish free finish, but I think it is pointless and detracts from the fact it is pine. I fill obvious nail holes, and then make a judgement on where I stop. Judging by customers’ responses to the quality of my paintwork, so far, so good! Fillers and primers are getting quite complex bedfellows these days. If this has been of use, why not keep informed with updates by email. I don’t spam, just send out more tips and ideas that you can use yourself. Painting over primer » For an oil finish, after priming, you should either undercoat once, topcoat twice, 3 x topcoats. I am a big fan of tinting the undercoat as close to the top coat colour as possible. Dulux oil undercoat was as good as any under Little Greene or other oil eggshell finishes but I tend ot stick with LG now. (Mark at Broken Cross Decorators Merchants in Macclesfield or any merchant with a machine should be able to tint primers and undercoats to match whatever you need for topcoats.) . Next day, sand down well with 220 grade abrasive, clean off with vacuum/tack rag; apply acrylic caulk to joints, let it dry (2 hours is enough) then apply first topcoat of oil eggshell paint, dry overnight, sanding between coats with 320 grade abrasive, cleaning with vacuum and tack rag, repeat. Done I now use Little Greene Paint Company exterior / interior oil based eggshell on furniture and kitchen units. In general terms, water based eggshell paint still doesn’t do it for me when a 5 star finish is required on furniture that has never been painted before – UNLESS it is premium grade joinery. There is always a balance with “perfect” because, you have to decide, do you want this laminate-looking finish on a characterful piece of reclaimed pine? I know I don’t, but the laminate look is growing in popularity, so maybe I am out of touch! Beware painting furniture in white oil paint The 2010 VOC regulations have thrown most of the paint industry into a tizz and they are having real trouble formulating white eggshell and gloss. Lots of evidence that it is prematurely yellowing, Dulux especially, as the highest profile manufacturer. Drying times have also extended. Thus far, Little Greene oil eggshell still performs as expected, and in normal conditions, I have had no problems sanding down first coats of eggshell the following day. ok Remember, this technique is great for reviving pine and oak furniture, a truly eco recycling strategy, but think long and hard before applying a hand-painted finish to an inlaid, veneered table and / or antique item. Better to sell them and buy a more modestly constructed piece for painting. I will be preparing a list of materials and tools required for each of the above options, suggesting decorating products at trade price. Viewed 121123 times How do you paint pine furniture?

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